🔗 Share this article

Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee well-known award-winning names. However, tucked prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a far-flung area of north London.

A Shocking Recognition

This little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. This accolade has made the owners completely shocked.

“I’m utterly surprised,” states the owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that led to their small place securing such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its former feel. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the fare, and this restaurant more than delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent texture.

It is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this modest spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for under £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Dedication

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I feel truly proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo beyond its own walls. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this culinary achievement.